BELEY Brake Bleeder Kit 110V Brake Fluid Bleeder Machine Kit Adjustable 0.7-2.5 Bar Pressure & Flow Microcontroller System for Single User Includes 52MM Master Cylinder Adapter & Oil Bottle

I'm leaving a 5-star review because this kit works as advertised, had no leaks, is priced reasonably, and is relatively easy to use. There are a couple of things that could be improved. The directions could be more helpful with more detail (they really should just shoot a quick "how to" video. I had to refer to videos from sellers of other similar devices to make sure I was using it correctly). The tube length for the waste fluid receptacle bottle should be a bit longer, and they could have put some measurement lines on the containers just to give you a better idea of how much fluid is in there. But these are all very minor issues. My main concern was whether or not one of the various adapter caps for the master cylinder would fit my 2009 Acura TL, which it did. So that was a relief. But they might be better off including one of those universal adaptors that can be made to fit pretty much any car rather than include all of the different cap sizes. In any event, this is a good unit for the money and, as I said, works as advertised with no issues related to this unit. But, I do have a cautionary tale with respect to my brake bleeding experience in general that I feel the need to tell. I'm reasonably handy and no stranger to DIY projects. I researched what was involved in using one of these solo pressure bleed kits, saw all the steps, and saw nothing that I shouldn't be able to easily handle. Well, my actual experience proved to be quite the opposite: Everything, aside from using this unit, turned out to be a problem. In order to do this properly, of course, you have to take the wheels off. No problem -- usually -- except that this time I was only able to remove 19 out of my 20 lug nuts with no issues, save for the 20th that was stuck on so tight that it literally took me 3 days to get it loose (finally after resorting to using a torch). I only have 2 jack stands so have to do this one wheel at a time unless I want to spring for another set. Once I was able to get the first wheel off, I set up this kit, tested the system for leaks, found none, added the fluid, and the unit held its pressure perfectly. Mistake#1: Assuming my set of wrenches, included the 10mm size that I would need to open the bleeder valve. It's a full wrench set but it contained every size except the one I needed. There was no mention of the wrench size I would need to open the bleeder in my owner's manual, nor could I find that info online, so I wouldn't know that none of my wrenches would fit until I went to all the trouble of removing the tire. So, I had to stop what I was doing with this unit, put the tire back on and ordered the correct size bleeder wrench from Amazon. One day wasted. When the wrench arrived, I jacked up the car, took the tire off again and finally began bleeding the first wheel. You're supposed to bleed it until you see no more air bubbles, but that never happened. Even as clean fluid began to be visible in the tube, it all came with plenty of air bubbles which never dissipated. Never, not even a little. In the meantime the waste bottle was really filling up. I knew something had to be wrong, so stopped what I was doing and looked online for information about this problem. I found a Youtube video that explained that when this happens, it's almost always an issue right at the bleeder valve itself and has nothing to do with air still being in your brake line. Okay, so that makes sense but now I had no way of being sure I was getting all the air out. In any case, I proceeded to the next wheel. The bleeder valve on this wheel, however, was quite a bit more corroded -- the car is 16 years old, after all, and has been one of the best cars I've ever owned, with nearly zero repairs needed, but I live in a cold climate in an area that uses salt on the roads, so things get corroded. Well, this valve did not open so easily. In fact, instead of opening, it totally broke off! I expected fluid to go shooting out everywhere because it's under pressure but, to my surprise, none came out. Probably because the line is blocked somewhere with corrosion. In any case, the point is, I'm now going to have to replace the entire caliper. -- a job I'm going to leave to professionals. So, instead of saving a bit of money bleeding the brakes myself, I'm now going to have to spend a whole lot more money and have the whole caliper replaced and, while I'm at it, I should probably have the one on the other side replaced as well. There are bleeder valve repair kits available but I'm done with all of this. Lesson learned. So, consider what happened in my case and think carefully if this is really something you want to try yourself. If your car is old, you're likely to encounter similar issues. Garages do charge kind of a lot to bleed brakes or do a full fluid flush but, on the other hand, you might be better off just biting the bullet and having it done professionally. If you do still want to try doing it yourself though, this kit will do the job.

TRY 1: I bought a manual VACUUM bleeder kit on amazon, which was a total loss. Could never tell if the line was bled, since air was being sucked in from under the nipple. No, grease didn't help, and wrapping in teflon means removing the nipple, which I was not prepared to do. Also, the supplied waste cup was a piss poor design, such that the cap would leak air even at single digit psi. Will never try that again. Try2: I spent way too much time researching which pressure bleeder to get. One would think suppliers would make it easy to identify what cap they are supplying. We all know "fits most" means "not gonna work for you!" Do they really not mind having units returned, and bad feedback left? So, REASON 1 I chose this unit. CLEAR PICS & DIMS of the caps. CHECK: Look and measure your brake reservoir cap. Is it twist-lock (three tabs lock as you turn it), or is it threaded, like a water bottle cap? Vehicle is 2010 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring (Mazda forever). Couldn't find a seller that convinced me their cap would fit at a "normal" price. This seller, however, includes a universal cap (REASON 2). Got the unit, and was SO pleasantly surprised: The quality is great! All plastic parts are very thick. Even the plastic caps are hefty (I didn't need them). The biggest joy was the universal adapter, though. It's heavy, I think mostly steel construction. The tapered rubber plug is large and solid rubber. CAVEAT: The "L" shaped pieces slide along bar, and are not secured. I highly recommend doing so. Masking tape or rubber bands on the end of bar, or around both "L"s. The last thing you want, is to have one (both!) slide off and enter the black hole under your engine. Take care that the "L"s are snug against the neck of the filler. The lip on my vehicle's filler is small (1/8"?). Watch out too, that the adapter is rotated around the neck properly. The TWO "L"s are pulling up on THREE tabs of the neck, so watch that all is evened out. I did not fill the unit with brake fluid. Didn't feel like having to clean it after use. I did what someone, somewhere recommended (thank you!): Fill the vehicle reservoir, and just use the pump air pressure to force the fluid thru the lines. To not over-stress the filler lip, I only used about 5-8psi. Worked well! Just check that the level doesn't drop too far. I checked after every wheel. I've bled brakes for decades using other methods. This is "THE WAY" to do it. Great value, that makes a messy, frustrating job, so much less so. Only improvement I' ll make, is 3D printing a twist-lock cap that fits my car.

Product came quickly, The adapter worked perfectly, built with excellent quality, and affordable price. But several adapter parts were removed via a small hole in the box side, thankfully I had the correct adapter in my tools, not cool because it was packed after it was opened.

Worked like a charm solid durability thru out sealed well allowing for a good bleeding of brakes

As a whole, the system worked as advertised. The durability, however, was lacking. After depressurizing the system then removing the master cylinder cap adapter, I found that the adapter had broken. After just one use mind you. The max pressure I used was 14psi. The part that broke is clearly made of plastic, if this had been something stronger then that’d be great. Wanted to give this a 5/5 because of how awesome it was to use, but I can’t because of durability issues.

Bleeder kit works as intended...except the premade reservoir caps didn't fit my vehicles. 2016 Hyundai Sonata and 2008 Honda CRV. Both I had to use the big custom clamping adapter. You have to be very careful with that adapter and make sure you DON'T unscrew the fitting by accident when tightening on the reservoir. Once pressurized, started leaking down under my car. If only there was a way to find the exact caps I needed for my car. I'm afraid of buying one because the quick disconnect might not be the same size as this kit. Works, but just know you may have to 'rig it' a bit to make it work.

Worked perfectly. I needed an adapter for my 2005 lincoln town car and this tool did the trick. Used it to flush the lines and I have perfect brakes now.

Used in busy work shop and meets all requirements no complaints no manufacturer uncovered worth it’s weight in gold…. Tom at Lingards

No encontraba nada similar para el taller. Con este juego estoy solventando el 100% de vehículos. Eso sí, los conectores no valen para mi máquina de purgado pero con un par de adaptaciones muy sencillas, ya estaría.

Parfait

Ottimo prodotto

Funktioniert wie ich mir das vorgestellt habe. Leider war bei mir warum auch immer der Schlauch an der Flasche kaputt. Da war ein Loch drin, habe den Schlauch ein Stück gekürzt, brauchte das Ding leider dringend sonnst hätte ich es auf Grund des defekten Schlauches wahrscheinlich zurück geschickt. Wirklich gutes Gerät, der Schraubadapter passt bei BMW und VW. Die anderen habe ich bisher noch nicht ausprobieren können, die machen aber einen ganz guten Eindruck.