Bike Brake And Derailleur

The cables are strong and move well inside the universal housing. A bicycle cable housing cutter is needed, since attempting to get through the strong steel lining is practically impossible with flat bladed cutting pliers or a hacksaw. The brake cable ends have smaller puck shapes than the ones that came with my brake levers, but they fit in and work well. The shifter cable ends are normal size. Ferrules are excellent and responded well to crimping. There are some minor drawbacks with the product -- They're tightly coiled in the package so visible bends are possible in what should be smooth curves of cable housing in front of the handlebars, and there are only four cable end caps so great care and certainty must exist before they are installed and crimped. I'm really happy with how well my 18 speed bike with linear pull brake works with these cables. They move with ease and control even though I missed the step of greasing the cables. Seating the cable and compressing the spiral lining led to excellent, powerful braking and friction shifting that required no fine tuning. The housing is long enough to have a continuous run from brake and shifter levers to the rear triangle. Fully housed cables will be protected from rain, splashed puddle water, road dust, and sweat. I have a lot of peace of mind having a set of these on hand for future use.

I bought these cables to restore my beloved 1983 Schwinn (Chicago) college bike. The cables were so worn that the derailleurs no longer reliably indexed the gears. As it happened, the cable housings were still in excellent condition after 33 years, so I decided to keep them to maintain the original look of the bike (and save myself some work). I had never installed gear cables before, but I found the process to be quick and easy (after watching several good instructional videos on YouTube). These new Schwinn cables are far superior to the original cables and now my old bike is back on the road. One installation trick I learned: After removing the old cables, I sprayed PTFE (Teflon) "dry lube" into all the housings and all contact points along the cable path. The lube liquid dries almost instantly and leaves a layer of Teflon on everything that the cable touches, thus eliminating much resistance along the cable path. Less resistance = better functionality. The PTFE spray can be found in bike shops at a high price BUT the same product can also be found in the WalMart automotive department in a larger can for a much lower price.

This is a low cost alternative to replacing cables on an older bike. The cable itself is steel and worked fine on the bike I rebuilt - oddly enough, an old Schwinn from 1977. There are different ends for the brakes and derailiurs so be sure to match the correct cable. I did find the housings to be easier to crush when cutting to length than I would prefer. I found putting one of the old cables inside before cutting helped, and you could work the end open easily with an awl or probably even a nail. If your bike is not shifting correctly and the cable are a couple of years old (Or older!) its time to replace them. These will certainly help your bike shift better. If you have a more modern higher end machine I would advise you to look elsewhere.

This is a very affordable, high quality cable repair set that will allow you to replace two brakes and two derailers. Even though I only needed to replace my rear derailer cable this set allows me to have an extra set of cables on hand for any future repairs. If you've never replace brake or gear cable Youtube has plenty of tutorials on this subject. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a video for you particular bike. Also don't mix up the cables. You need to use the brake cable for the brakes and the gear/derailer cable for gears. They are made different and for specific purpose. Here's a very valuable tip many other reviewers have mentioned and that is use a pair of cable cutters that are made for cutting brake or gear cable. I thought I would be fine using my pair of very high quality cable cutters however I was wrong. One of the cable I cut started to fray at the end and I had to discard that cable. I decided to get the Sunyou Mountain Bike Inner Outer Brake Gear Wire Cable Spoke Cutter Repair Tool. Although I don't feel this is the best quality tool i feel if you're a home bike mechanic this would be fine. Don't try to skimp using regular cable cutters. For the price this is a great cable set.

Cables worked well, but I would like to see instructions included on how to adjust the bike brakes. I also discovered generic brake cables will not work on Schwinn bikes. The clamp on the end of the cable that fits into the break lever handle isa custom shape. All that being said, the Schwinn cables worked as advertised.

I think this is the best value i have found. Cables work great. I got this because all the cables from my Schwinn World were original. The bike was made in 1986 so the cables needed to be replaced. Had everything i needed in the kit. Wasnt short on any of the cables. Also i replaced All the cables on my bike and this kit took care of that. Great stuff. just watch out for some of the other kits, because they dont give you everything. This one Does!!!

Estos repuestos cumplen con su función, incluye para ambos frenos y ambos cambios.

This kit has everything pertaining to the cable itself. One key thing about this kit is that the cables are pre-threaded through the casings. This is important because you'll need to snip off the retention ends on the cables to get them out. Make sure you review what your bike actually needs, or else you risk winding up with a line that isn't compatible with your system. Other than that one consideration, they're pretty solid all around.

Universal cable kit was ideal to replace all the cables and cable covers. Everything you need is in the kit. Easy to install and a decent price.

Seems like a decent product, however, I find there was a lack instructions; IMO, they should include how to set and make adjustments. The instructions recommend using side cutters, to cut to length, but do yourself a favour and use a grinder with a thin disc. When using the cutters, I found it crushed the inner sheathing and was a pain to try and open it back up, with an awl. Btw , a hacksaw won't cut the SS reinforcement, in the carcus. I would recommend this product, just replace one at a time and it will work out fine. 👍

Amazing! Thanks so much. Works great. My break cables were all rusted before and cables wouldn't retract. Fixed the sticking break problem. Great price. Thanks k's so much.