BTF-LIGHTING SP630E Bluetooth LED Controller Support PWM Monochrome CCT RGB RGBW RGBCCT Or SPI TTL IC Chip LED Strip WS2811 WS2812B WS2813 WS2814 WS2815 SK6812 LB1934 etc DC5V DC12V DC24V

The app isn't great but its functional. It crashes frequently on Android. Operation is somewhat intuitive but the installation instructions are terrible and 30 minutes of trial and error will be your friend. As a novice in using LED tape lighting, a better instruction book/pdf would have been nice. Also during installation, the PLASTIC CONNECTORS between LED lights and wires MATTER and will consume 90% of your installation time if you don't know how they work or if you get the wrong item. I listed the connectors liked below. My 'hopefully' helpful hints for what they were worth: This SP630E unit adds Bluetooth and remote control functionality to the WS2812B LED Strips. It is also the interface that transfers power from the transformer to the LED Tape and generates the signals that the LED tape needs to work. This box works well, it is small and can be discretely hidden, but instructions are poor. You can program light sequencing, colors, timers and response to sound with the app. A dedicated remote control is available in different kits or might be sold separately, but you don't need the remote if you plan to control these lights from your phone. The remote is simple and has preset controls for most of what you can do with the lights, but the app (free) allows a little more functionality and control. To use the app, you first have to Bluetooth pair it with the SP630E controller. I had a lot of missteps doing my ordering and first installation of LED lights. My installation was a 6 self, 8 foot high bookcase that I wired as one continuous length but with 5, 12" vertical wire jumps and 48" horizontal LED runs. I was able to hide all the vertical wires fairly well. I goofed up and had to splice a few of the horizontal LED strips but those spices were easy using these flat connectors: Some additional flubs that hopefully you wont repeat: 1. Get a 5V transformer (DO NOT use12V) to power the WS2812B strips 2. Its not complicated. The WS2812B LED strips require only 3 wires for full functionality: --Use a red wire to connect the voltage tab (+5V) on LED strip with the "VCC" port/terminal on the SP630E unit --Use a green wire to connect the middle metal tab (DIN) on the LED strip with the "WC" port/terminal on the SP630E --Use a white wire to connect the ground metal tab (GND) on the LED strip with the "GND" port/terminal on the SP630E 3. The WS2812 LED strips are fairly dense (maybe 2" apart and can show every color and groups of LEDs can be programmed somewhat independently 4. Always pay attention to the arrows when you combine LED strip pieces. The arrows should always be pointing AWAY from the SP630E. If you connect part of the LED strip pieces the the wrong way, the entire strip will not work. 5. Cut straight across the middle of the LED strip metal tabs (where all the arrows are located) between the lights. Connecting a LED strip directly to another LED strip was easy...using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASHQPO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Just make sure you place the strips tabs under the connector tabs. The 90% elbows in the kit were kind of crappy and tended to be too floppy to reliably connect...probably just me, but the straight connectors were fine, the elbows were a waste. 6. If you want to connect a 3 conductor wire the LED sections (to jump a distance without lights), the ONLY connectors that worked for me was https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PR418WZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I wasted a ton of time trying other ways to connect them. These connectors specifically have 3 small holes on one side to stick the wires in. On the opposite side you stick the metal tab end of your LED strip in, FACE DOWN. The LED metal tabs must face down in the connectors. Be careful that GND connects to GND, +5V connects to +5V and DIN connects to DIN across these connectors. You must click down hard on each side to make an electrical contact take place inside the connectors. The LED tape connection side is a bit tricky to line up, but look thru the clear plastic to ensure that the metal tabs line up inside the connectors. Unfortunately, once you snap either side of these connectors shut, its almost impossible to open them back up if they don't make good contact with the metal embedded inside the connectors. If this is your first time working with these lights, you will waste some connectors. You will wind up cutting LED lights off when you mess up the positioning within the connectors. I got better & faster with every section that I did. Ultimately, you can absolutely do these projects but there is a learning curve.

works perfect and always reconnects on 1st try

My rgb controller of choice. The addressable functions are good as well- I just have a slightly better controller I use in that situation but this one is a bit more affordable.

I have three of these and they work consistently every time I would say if your actual strip isnt lighting up, don’t just leave it plugged with the wires and stuff. unplug it because you don’t want to like burn out part of it while you’re troubleshooting I can almost guarantee it has something to do with how much of the wrapping on the cable you stripped or if there’s enough contact between the little wires and the contact plate inside the thing like sometimes when you clamp it down if you didn’t take off enough you’re clamping down on rubber so it’s not actually conducting anything. If you get a flicker, maybe the wires wrapped back around or something but you want to clamp directly onto the wires. and that sounds simple, but I literally have issues with it every time. that’s just how these things are. I’ve had the same type of hook up with other devices and converters and things and always there’s some struggling. Also, if you get a flicker, you wanna unplug it right away because it probably means that like one of the wires is not in but the other ones are so those ones are trying to conduct power, but there’s too much power going through them and you can destroy the strip.

I have many addressable/SPI controllers from various companies, none really work 100% the way I want them to, (though Twinkly products seem to get it spot on). That being said, this BTF controller (BanlanX app) does a pretty good job getting things done to a higher percentage rate. For those who are new or discovering more about individually addressable (SPI/smart ic) LEDs you must have patience and grace, things will work out eventually, possibly not as the way you want in the beginning, but you may just find out better ways later. Now, back to the controller, it arrived on time and in mint condition. The box came with the controller, instructions, adhesive, and a small flat head screwdriver. The instructions are simple and if you want more detailed instructions there’s a QR code on the back of the controller that will lead you to the manufactures website. I used a 24v addressable RGBCCT backup data SPI led strip to test it out. It worked great, great color and received 2700k-6200k on the white. I like some of the premade scenes, though there Christmas scenes are lacking by using all colors, none just have green, red, and white…it’s a Chinese thing and all apps seem to have this issues. Luckily you can create your own and it’s easy to do on the app. Additionally you can just activate any led separately to any color or “off” if you like. That way you can accentuate parts of your house or tree or whatever you need attention to or not. Pretty flexible. There is a con to this controller, it doesn’t seem to like TM1814 RGBW IC led puck/point led strips or any larger led strips (like the ones you permanently attach to the outside of you house that are popular right now). But if you stick to the traditional WSxxxx led strips this will work fine. Overall I recommend this product to my family, friends, and all who read this review! Happy shopping!!