2" to 7" Cylinder Honing Tool

Using on small engines

I used this a Kawasaki 24hp lawnmower engine and was flawless. I would recommend this tool based on the quality of construction and competative price.

Do not expect it to be ready for use out of the packaging. It fell apart immediately after I started using it and spent the next 10 minutes searching for the parts and figuring out how it all went together. After that, it did give the desired cross-hatch on my motorcycle cylinder. I also put thread locker on the hone threads to make sure it stayed put for the next use.

I bought this in hopes of using it while restoring small gasoline engines for my YouTube channel. It looks like it would work perfectly. The quality is good. The cost was low. I’m looking forward to seeing how they perform. I suspect they will do great.

Work beautifully just what I needed. Put my leaf blower back together back in business.

Despite smacking the stones at the bottom of a couple cylinders, this thing held together great. Did exactly what it was designed for, rebuilt my 200k+ engine with great compression and no smoke.

Broke after 20 mins.

worked for a 1974 Honda CT90 Moter. just take your time and use it the right way. very easy to use

My first time honing a bore but does the job,the flexy means it's a bit forgiving if you get the angle slightly off when using a drill and can feel when it's right,done 3 of 6 cylinders so far and when taking my non existent experience before looks ok finish,pictures before and after

bon produit je recommande pour le prix

I needed this tool to hone a 500cc cylinder bore after fitting new rings. I bit tricky to close/grip the heads whilst inserting them into the 79mm bore butonce in it did the job perfectly in a matter of seconds. Well worth the money.

yamaha 4moto 350cc 1987 Merci Beaucoup :)

I used this for a 500cc Briggs & Stratton 1 cyl OHV engine, 90.5mm bore to deglaze and prep for new rings. Its been 40 years since I used a cylinder hone, and this was a much smaller engine. The hone arrived in the original packaging, undamaged and free of defects. I followed the link to the website and watched the video. I then proceeded to start honing my 1 cylinder and just as quickly stopped after a couple of short tries and being alarmed by the lack of proper crosshatch and the very aggressive surface finish. Time to rethink before the point of no return, I am obviously doing this wrong. I expect some of the problem might be the metallurgy of the B&S cylinder sleeves, maybe they are not as hard as some good cast iron 1970s American V8s that I messed with as a teenager. Maybe the big Makita 1/2" drill with 2 speed gearbox is too fast and too heavy for such a small job. inertia is not your friend here. Maybe the stones on the hone are too new, the edges are quite sharp and crisp. Maybe the tension spring is too heavy even at it's minimum setting. So clean everything, sleep on it and try again the next day. Tried some different drills, settled on a cordless Ryobi One+ drill/driver with the speed range on 1 even with the trigger fully depressed it is nice and slow. And light weight so you aren't fighting to change direction at the end of each stroke. Speaking of which, on a little cylinder like this you're only stroking 2" if you don't want the stones popping out of the bore. Decided to break the stones in a bit. Got a glass 1qt pickle jar and half-filled with water and some dawn dish soap. Held it in the kitchen sink and proceeded to hone it out, working on speed and technique while also cleaning the stones and relieving the crisp corners a bit. It's not what the hone does to the glass, its what the glass does to the stones. Now I have them clean and not digging in. Removed the flex shaft and tried to find a lighter coil spring. Not much luck, the only one i had was too light and didn't give enough tension. But realized that the flex shaft screws on the adjustment bolt quite a distance, so if you don't screw it all the way down you can loosen the tension nut a few turns further up and get less force on the stones in a small bore. Make sure you run it up tight, double nut style, so it doesn't come apart unexpectedly. back to my little engine. Slop on some 10W30 and away we go. Much better this time, I could see a proper cross hatch working into the cylinder wall. However the deeper finish from the first attempt was still evident and I decided not to keep going to try for perfection. The goal was to deglaze, not hone it out .005 because then the new standard rings won't fit. Run my fingernail over it and can feel enough profile that it should seat the new rings. I'm sure this tool will last for many small engine rebuilds, the only noticeable wear was from my "break-in" in the pickle jar. Now we wait for the rebuild kit to arrive. I'll update once it is running and let you know if the smoking and oil consumption goes away.