GM Genuine Parts 23481275 Vapor Canister Vent Valve

I have a 2009 Chevy Tahoe that issued a P0449 Code. I bought this and the ACDelco 19257603 plug adapter. This was very easy to change and took me about 1hr. It took 30 min to get the stupid spare tire off. It was stuck and I had to use a long screw driver to release the safety lock. This canister comes with a new steel bracket and all new hoses. I absolutely needed the ACDELCO 19257603 Adapter since this canister has the updated electrical plug. This is an updated canister. The hoses are shaped a bit different than the factory original. I had the route the stiff hose under the charcoal box then up instead of above it and then down. This was a non-issue but just wanted to make a note of it. The flexible breather hose fit fine and came with zip ties to fasten it to the frame. Also note that this will not fit the old steel bracket. The canister comes with a new bracket and I had to use it to get the canister to sit in the correct position. The old bracket will causes the canister to be installed incorrectly which will pinch the stiff pipe. The new bracket worked perfect and all the pipes fit as they should - use a 13mm wrench to remove the single bolt holding it on the frame.. Overall this was a very easy change and the only tools I needed was a 13mm wrench, flat screw driver, and wire cutters to cut the old zip ties, and a $10 code reader to reset the code.

My 2009 GMC Yukon XL Denali had a check engine light, and the code indicated a bad vapor pump. Since the part is relatively inexpensive, and because it includes all the hoses, I bought this to replace the old one. Installation was a little rough because the rear undercarriage of an SUV with 175k miles is a dirty place. If you do this job, make sure you have safety classes. And a way to take a selfie after you're done, so that your wife will think you worked really hard. Watch which hose you're disconnecting from the canister. I wrestled with the wrong hose for a while. The correct hose came off easily. Do a youtube search for a good tutorial. I watched Brian Eslick from How to Automotive - he has a great one, although its for a 2007. DON'T cut off the zip ties that it comes with. They have a double-head, so they can be used to connect the vapor inlet tube to the filler neck. I discovered that my old hose that runs up next to the filler neck had worn through. The vapor pump probably sucked in all kinds of dirt through that, killing it. This new design has a protective cover over the tube, so that shouldn't be a problem in the future. The whole thing took about an hour, after I got the spare tire off and not including fighting with the wrong tube on the vapor canister. This is absolutely a DIY, in the driveway, after work and before dark kind of job. Just watch the video first, and hype up the job to your significant other that it will be REALLY difficult. So they appreciate it more. And just like that, the CEL light was gone.

My wife's truck had a bad purge canister; so while we were replacing that we had bought this and replaced it as well. I'm not convinced this part was necessary at all; probably could have saved my money on this one. It goes in easy enough though and she can put gas in her truck now. The part worked great and fit well.

Product was fine; installed simple enough, but unfortunately these EVAP systems can be clogged in other areas, preventing you from getting much gas in before the filler neck backs up and shuts off the nozzle because the gas tank vent line is blocked "somewhere". VERY irritating. We're still trying to figure out where it's clogged. Product itself looked great, new GM part. You always need to start with this part. Sometimes it's the sole problem, sometimes not. Hope it works for you.

Replacement part fit no problem

08 Yukon Denali with 115K. Engine light originally came on with a P0496 code so I had dealer replace purge valve on top of engine. Light was off for about 2 months then back on with a small leak emissions code, so I replaced gas cap and cleared the code. Of course, as soon as the evap monitor returned to "ready" status and tested for leaks I received a large leak code along with P0449 vent valve malfunction code. I watched a couple of YouTube videos and realized I could handle this. Purchased a cheap creeper, ordered this updated part along with the required wiring harness adapter, installed it and cleared the code. It took about 3 weeks of driving for the evap monitor to return to "ready" status and test the system. That was one week ago and I have checked several times using my code reader and there are still no pending or fault codes, so I am going to ring the bell on this one! Here are some tips for ordering and installation: - As many have said, also order the ACDelco 19257603 jumper wiring harness. You will need it. - Lower spare tire and move it out of way to offer more room. I'm 5'10 and 175 lbs. Didn't need to jack vehicle up, but moving spare was necessary. - Use a creeper so you can more easily turn in awkward positions to disconnect/connect parts. - Wear safety goggles, cotton/plugs in ears and a cheap particle respirator (lots of debris will fall). - Search YouTube and watch videos, especially for pinching to release hose from charcoal canister. It's easy once you know how. - If you don't already have a code reader, get one so you can monitor/clear codes. Under $20 and you can keep it in your glove compartment. - After installing, evap monitor needs to test for leaks and it only does this after certain conditions are met (i.e., vehicle in cold mode, usually overnight, certain ambient temps and all sorts of other factors). You can monitor status of this with a code reader/scanner. If you haven't cleared the code after installation, light will remain on until test is complete and positive for no vapor leaks/system malfunctions. If you have cleared code, you are not in the "clear" until the evap system tests "ready" and there are NO CODES. For me this took 3 weeks of WI driving. If you still have a leak, assuming the new part is good and properly installed, it means another part of the system (purge valve, gas cap, charcoal canister, wiring, etc.) still needs to be addressed. Good luck and sorry for such a long review, but I hope it helps! For a DIYer, the price of this OEM part on Amazon is excellent!

Didn’t fit on my 2010 Chevrolet suburban I have to get an adapter because the plug connector is diffent

Determined to resolve the CEL Code P0455 Large Leak, that plagues me through the summer months & inhibits remote start. Having thrown the engine purge valve & new gas cap at her without success, I resolved to tackle the other likely culprits. Thus I purchased the following: GM Genuine Parts 22963841 Vapor Canister GM Genuine Parts 23481275 Vapor Canister Vent Valve (Spare Vent Valve Solenoid Jumper Wiring Harness Connector 19257603) A simple job that took a fair while longer than it should have, as the spare wheel that wouldn't lower so after spraying with liberal amounts of WD40 & waiting it finally dropped to the ground. Thus I finally resumed the quest to track down the root cause of my P0455 Large & went in to replace the vent valve. Can you see the problem boys & girls in the pictures? Yes the hose between charcoal canister & vent valve was totally gone (except for the right angled hose connector that remained attached to the canister). I replaced the canister vent valve, very quickly, using the new pigtail connector, though the older unit had the same adaptor cable & I kept the vapor canister for another day or just in case of future problems. It worked out cheaper for me to buy the genuine parts & get them shipped to Montana for my pickup, than it did to source clone parts &\or get a garage to perform the repair in Canada. Total time best part of 4 hours for what should have been a very easy job (Allowing for a half dead hand), 90 minutes maximum would be a safe number, bonus points I can lower my spare tire & have resolved to check that each Spring & Fall from hence.