Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Magic Soap Liquid (Baby Unscented, 16oz) – Made with Regenerative Organic Certified Oils- For Sensitive Skin, Babies, Face, Hair, Laundry, Dishes, Hand Soap & Body Wash

This is absolutely hands down my favorite body wash. It makes me feel clean and smells so good. It’s used for alot of things too other than body wash. You can do it for laundry. Clean fruit. Bathe the dogs. 100% recommend.

Love this soap.

I bought Dr. Bronner’s Baby Unscented Pure Castile Soap to make my own liquid hand soap, and I could not be happier. The soap should be diluted for most uses; by how much is a matter of preference. For the time being, I have settled on 1 part castile soap to 2 parts distilled water, with 1 tablespoon each of almond carrier oil and unrefined shea butter per cup of liquid for hand soap. Add as much or as little essential oil as you like for fragrance. The soap is very thin (liquid-like); I thicken and stablilize it with xanthan gum added to the carrier oil. This is the kindest soap to my hands that I have ever used, and it lathers extremely well. If you don’t use a stabilizer such as xanthan or guar gum, you have to swish the soap before use every time, because it separates from the added oils. This isn’t a big deal. It’s just a matter of preference, if you’re using a non-foaming pump.A lot of people just dilute the castile soap with water and leave it at that. On its own, the castile soap is not drying, but adding shea butter feels better on my skin. The dilution can be used in a foaming soap pump, without a stabilizer, to make it last longer. Shea butter will clog a foaming pump, though, so I use a regular pump and add a stabilizer. Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap is biodegradable, nontoxic, versatile, and contains many organic and Fair Trade ingredients. The Baby Unscented version has double the olive oil of the scented versions so may be especially suited to dry or sensitive skin. I’m wary of fragrance in general, so I went for Unscented, but I may give the Citrus a try too, instead of using my own oils. It’s amazing what simple, saponified oils can do that more complex formulations cannot. They’re nontoxic, non-drying, and make quick work of dirt and oils.Ingredients: Water, Fair Trade Organic Coconut Oil, Potassium Hydroxide (none remains after saponifying oils into soap & glycerin), Fair Trade Organic Palm Kernel Oil, Fair Trade Organic Olive Oil, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Citric Acid, Tocopherol.My recipe for 12 ounces of hand soap:1 cup distilled water1 ½ tablespoons shea butter1 ½ tablespoons sweet almond oil1 teaspoon xanthan gum½ cup castile soap30 drops orange oilWarm water and shea butter in pot over low heat. Thoroughly mix almond oil and xanthan gum in a small bowl until smooth. When shea butter has melted, whisk in the castile soap. Add oil and xanthan gum while whisking. Continue to whisk. Bring to a boil. Mixture should thicken. Remove from heat. Then add essential oils, as you like. Whisk and allow to cool.

Real soap is fat and caustics that have gone through Saponification.There's a whole list of products that do not fall into this category that people call "soap."Don't be fooled by marketing and destroy your skin and the environment. Use real soap.'Nuff said :POkay, I tried to be brief. I'm not good at it LOL.Dr. Bronner's is a wonderful soap, but it's not what a lot of people expect. So many people are not used to real soap anymore, because it's been 50+ years since most real soaps held any popularity. I'm old enough to remember what a big deal Ivory soap was because it wasn't as caustic as most homemade soaps. I also remember when Irish Spring, Dove and Soft Soaps hit the market. (That last was SO nasty and slimy, is it still? I haven't touched it in decades.)Everyone made homemade soaps back-in-the-day as they say. It was a thing, like feeding the chickens or cooking breakfast. You needed it to wash, so you made your own. The problem was (and is) different fats and ingredients will make a milder or harsher product based on how the saponification process went, yet most rural homemakers knew little to nothing of what we call modern chemistry. Ideally, all of the caustic soda will be converted and none will remain in the end product. But depending on the water content, the soap can miss it's mark. My grandmother would say that "failed" soap became laundry soap, and we'd grate it with a stainless box cheese grater, toss it with some powdered 20 mule borax powder (just enough to keep the soap from re-sticking together) and use scoops in the washing machine. It was very harsh on the skin, and could give your skin a chemical burn if you left it on your skin for long because of the caustic soda.Also, bit of trivia, the process of making biodiesel and making soap are closely related, and if done wrong, a form of glycerine soap will form at the bottom of the batch of biodiesel.So, long story short, this is good stuff. It's real soap, not the chemical soup of various detergents they pass off as soaps. Buy it, it's healthier and you won't regret it. But be aware that it's going to be different than anything you are probably used to, so learn about it and how to use it. Use *much* less than your average shower gel stuff, it does weird things to your hair, but they have products to fix that (and if I remember correctly, there's plenty of homemade recipes to correct that as well.)

Leaked a little enough to bubble the label but can’t complain too much, that’s the dangers of buying online. Maybe the manufacturer should have an inside seal under the cap.