First Inertia Switch Vehicle Crash Sensor Standard Ignition Electric Fuel Pump

This is great! Fit it to a 1988 Ford Ranger (it's universal). If you suspect your original inertia switch is faulty, you can unplug it and run a wire between the terminals. Then try to start it. If that works, it's the switch which needs replaced (compared to to expensive fuel pumps). Now, the OEM switch is $100+, and I was hesitant to try this one here that requires "rewiring" but this is easy and worth the significant savings. It took me a minute to understand the instructions in reviews, but once done, great. I'll try to clarify the instructions here: The change required is to move the placement of a wire on the wiring harness. The wire in the middle needs to be on the end (on the "C" and "NC" spots, see the switch itself for which those are). I was able to use a flat screwdriver to pry up the yellow plate, and a small flat screwdriver inserted into the top (at the end of the wires) to release the wire. Then just moved it one spot over. Other reviews didn't mention how to know which of the 2 wires on my vehicle go into which side of this switch...but wait, it doesn't matter. This is just an interrupter switch that closes the connection if the switch is shaken (e.g. if the car is rolled over or in an accident.) This is how this switch is universal. This kit comes with two connectors, so you'll only need to cut the wires before your old wiring harness, and clamp the included clips over your wires. I included a picture that shows this installed (before mounting, which is important that it's mounted securely). This switch works great and for 15 minutes more effort (VS. the one designed for your car that plugs right in) it's absolutely worth it, and a great buy!

The switch is wired to be normally open and not normally closed. The circuit is only closed when it is activated which is the opposite of what you want for power to a fuel pump. Repinning it is difficult. Also, the weather seals were not pushed in all the way and I had to seat them correctly.

Switch is easy to install. It comes NO and for my purposes needed to be NC. The change is not documented but easy to accomplish. If wiring change is necessary pry off the yellow cap on the plug (see picture) The wire positions are labeled COM NO and NC. It came configured with wires in the NO and COM. You will want to move the NO wire to the NC position. The wires are held in place with a retainer clip that can be pried back releasing the wire for easy removal, Insert a small screwdriver ( I used a 1.4 mm jewelers screwdriver) to release the wire. Look into the socket with a flashlight to determine the depth of the retainer and the direction that you need pry the retainer. It is easy to spot in the empty hole. A small flat screwdriver will work better than a round object like a paperclip. Pull on the wire that needs to be moved while prying the retainer, When released from the retainer pull the wire while prying the retainer and it will slide out of the hole. Move the wire to the desired location push it in from the rear of the socket engaging the retainer. Make sure the wire is centered in its location, replace the yellow cover plug in the wire socket and install the switch.

As described, works perfectly.

The wires may be reversed from what you need so test them prior to installtion.

Have it hooked up to Holley electric red fuel pump. It’s tied into the trigger wire on the relay side. You do need to back out the wires and repin it. The center slot is for a “red light warning buzzer” So far works as advertised! Larry

Item arrived in a triggered state. I pushed the button to reset it and it wouldn't stay reset. I had to push numerous times to get it to stay set. General movement and very casual bumps don't affect it but a little harder and it gets triggered. Then I have to try to reset it again. I e requested an exchange but I wish I didn't have to go to the hassle of taking it to a UPS store. Also, the wiring comes set up for trigger open, not closed. Should be the two ends are wired. I wish all 3 would be wired so I could hook up an indicator light for it. Ill update when I get the replacement. Giving a 2 star rating because I know even new things can be defective. Will update rating after exchange.

DOn't buy this one. It is my own fault I can't return this. I waited to long to work on my project. Before I installed this, I got out my ohm meter to test it. I smacked the switch to make sure it would pop off. No problem with that. Then I tested continuity. Switch has no continuity. Broken before it was ever installed. Typical Chinese junk.

hasn't been installed, yet.

Arrived in good time. Easy to install. Can't comment on effectiveness, as I haven't had a crash yet. Hope I will have nothing further to report, unless a false alarm. These were not thought of or required when I had an auxiliary electric fuel pump installed on my 50-year-old Fleury class A Motor-home 25 years ago. Now highly recommended. Don't want gas to keep pumping onto a hot manifold in an accident situation.

Cheaply made, defective

This would have received a 5 star rating if it came with instructions. If it wasn't for another buyers detailed review(CQS) I would never have figured out how to get it to work.

The item is sold with circuit open when button is down. Not until I checked the reviews (thank you to those who reviewed this and made comments) that I found this out. Had to do the correction on the wires as suggested. Sadly there were no instructions with the item and it was left to the buyer to discover this for himself.