POR-15 49239 Fuel Tank Repair Kit - Automotive, 1 Quart

I used this on the 1971 Super Beetle I am restoring. I was so very impressed at the outcome! I fallowed the instructions to a "T" and it created such an amazing finish inside the tank! Very impressed with it!

I'm resurrecting an antique car, and the 77 year old gas tank had lots of rust in it. I got most of the rust out with vinegar, but this kit was great for removing the rest of it and coating it. Without a doubt, follow the directions carefully, and wear gloves. The cleaner got more rust out, and the metal prep left a nice gray coating on the tank. Rinsing out the metal prep wasn't hard, but when it comes to drying the tank, it will take much longer than you think. I left a heat gun pointing in through the sender opening and the filler neck, but even after changing positions several times, it took over an hour to dry. Be patient! The final coating was easy to apply, but there was a baffle in the tank that took some additional maneuvering of the tank to get the coating on it. I had used the POR15 coating by itself on a motorcycle tank that was also rusty, and it works quite well. I will say even after 96 hours (4 days), there's still a strong smell of the coating, so maybe giving some extra time to make sure it's really dry is worthwhile. Maybe a week or more.

Yes, this stuff really works. Just follow the instructions. I used it on the gas tank of a 1941 Chevy that hadn't been run in years. Just make sure you read the entire label. It mentions that it may uncover leaks in the tank previously "sealed" by gunk. Oh yeah. That's what happened. It uncovered holes large enough to push a pencil through. But hey, it gave me a reason to buy a brand-new tank.

I've used all other kits on the market multiple times: Kreem, Red Kote, etc. I wanted to try something new on a tank that I needed to bulletproof, and generally trust the POR15 brand so I thought I'd give it a try. I pre-prepped the tank completely before even touching this kit, and I suggest others do the same. This included multiple heavy degreasing, chain knocking inside the tank to loosen, and then several days of soaking with Drano (yes, it works terrific) to remove a bottom layer of about 1/4" of ancient fuel sludge, and finally a pre-etching with OSPHO. Give yourself time--do your prep until you think you're done, then another 50% effort. The tank MUST be completely clean before you even unseal any tank coat kit. Finally the kit itself went like any other fuel coating. The coating itself flows very well, I rotated for about two hours before draining, I think. I left the material in the tank only slightly longer than the directions suggested before draining the excess, but the directions are trustworthy. Prep work entirely determines the quality of a tank restoration, but this coating is high quaiity. It does seem slightly stronger than RedKote or Kreem, once cured. Probably a 50 year coating vs. 20 year coating.

This is a labor intensive product that has conflicting instructions, the containers don't match the instruction sheet included with them. It would have been helpful to have known how the final stage coating behaves before starting. I expected the small amount of liquid to be hard pressed to cover the entire surface and get around the baffle, so l rotated the tank a lot trying to get even coverage. After waiting the required time I was suprised at how much material drained out of the tank and how much it changed and expanded, probably could have saved myself a lot of work if I had known how the coating worked. Tank cleaned up better than expected and coating seems to have bonded well. This tank should be good for another 95 years!

I used a few additional cleaning steps with white vinegar and metal hardware- small chains to help remove all of the rust and scale on the inside of the tank first. Then I followed the instructions in this kit. I have shared before and after pictures. There are paint runs, but who cares? The tank is coated and holding up well.

We purchased a replacement fuel tank (16 gallon) for my son's 85 Toyota Celica Supra, and used this kit to clean and seal it. My first advice to anyone unfamiliar with this product is READ THE DIRECTIONS on the can and online. Take time to watch the YouTube videos. It's pretty much a one-shot deal, and it can be difficult to work with. I've used kits similar to this before on motorcycles, but this was my first time working with a car-size tank. Keep in mind that this is an industrial strength product; so it is important to wear gloves and an apron, work in a well-ventilated area, don't wear your good clothes, and lay down something in case it spills (which it most-likely will). The sealant, in particular, will not come up unless you grind it off. (No, I'm not kidding!!) If I had to do it all over again, I would buy a sacrificial sheet (or two) of ply-wood or panelling to lay on the ground. Overall, though, the product works great. Before sealing it up, we inspected the tank closely, and found almost all of the rust had been removed.

The tank had two big holes that I had to use hardening material to fill. It also had atleast 6 pin holes i was able to find. I cleaned out the dirt and rust by filling with water and shaking. After getting all rust out i then followed the instructions that came with this. It takes most of the day but it works great. Only tip I have is when rolling the tank to cover all the inside I let it sit too long. You can see the extra buildup in the first picture. The second picture shows another angle. After cleaning up the outside, I put it back in the car and filled it up with fuel. No leaks, at all.