HECASA Complete Hood Kit Hood Side Panel Upper Hood Front Grille w/Headlight Compatible with John Deere X300 X304 X310 X320 X350 X370 X384 X394 Replacement for AUC13489 AUC13490 M168883 M168888

Im not quite sure of what people are talking about when it comes to assembly,and difficulty. It came with no instructions but putting it together was pretty self explanatory, it took me ten minutes 2 of the course bolts hold the headlight lenses, the other six secure the hinges to the grill with the hood itself sandwiched between the two. The inner cowling locks into place via the snap clips. The center panel locks into place with the hooks on the side panels. Another note is that this will fit any x series lawn tractor, even if it is air cooled! I give 5 stars because of the simplicity of assembly, fit,and fuction. It's half the price of the oem John Deere original and better material! Buy this! You won't be disappointed!

Installation was a bit of a pain - no instructions but not too difficult to figure out. Looks great installed. My only complaint is the hood is assembled using plastic tabs. I broke one off during assembly. Saved $200 compared to the OEM hood so I’m happy.

Super ultra mega massively fast shipping, Well packaged, This is an excellent product at a great price. I read some feedbacks on it before buying it. Yes it’s hard for a single person to assemble, but if you have two people, it’s a breeze the same as the OEM parts. Instructions would be great to help the inexperienced person. I assembled mine in about an hour and a half by myself, but I had prior experience with repairing an OEM hood. It fits old and new X series mowers. Well, worth your money.

excellent product and people - need instructions but one can figure it out

Poor quality comes with no instructions. Not very difficult to assemble but instructions would have been helpful. Hardware not sturdy at all, lifted the hood twice and it open the hinge/cog and it would not stay open on the stop after two tries. Bends out of shape really easy.

UPDATE: This was a challenge. Do not believe the folks who say this does not fit a John Deere x300 series tractor. It absolutely fits perfectly and nearly all parts DO WORK. THe problem is you have to be really tenacious and not new to problem solving. All of this could be easily alleviated with a set of decent instructions. There were NO INSTRUCTIONS. SO - In the interest of world peace - here are my post install insights - STEP BY STEP. 1. The package comes in two boxes. If you have an older JD Hood that you are replacing - be sure to save the wiring harness for the headlamps. The wiring harness (crap) that comes from this kit is really low quality and is the only part that was sub-par. 2. Understand that the way this goes together will finally result in something that both stays together and is solid but that is NOT clear at the outset. YOU will be happiest if you have a decent work area where you can move the parts around without worrying about scarring it up. Get an old blanket and work on that. 3. When viewed from the outside and standing in front - there is a green top panel of the hood and two green side panels for the hood. These three pieces must be slotted together. It is really easy to get these backwards. I spent the first 20 minutes trying to make it work backwards. I should nearly jump together for the first two panels and you will know you˙have it turned "right". I found that one of the side panels went to the top easily and locked in quickly BUT i was not able to do the same with the other side panel due to the weight and the fact that I needed to press at both ends to fully seat the slots and only had two hands. Once I had another set of (relatively strong) hands we were able to get it all seated and slotted together. 4. Next (and this was NOT clear until after I had bought unneeded parts and assembled it wrong) comes the front grill. Remove the protective film and install the clear headlight lenses with the screw provided but go slow so you don't strip out the plastic. The bulbs go in and out through the slotted openings for the head lamp sockets after the hood is assembled and not through the clear covers. I found that the screws from my old JD hood were a better fit and held better. Place the green top and side panels on the work area and get the two metal brackets that attach this hood to the tractor. This next part was only clear after I completed the entire job and it dawned on me only then that i had missed a piece and needed to partially disassemble to correct. SO - with the parts upside down and sitting on your pad get the grill and place in the front opening. Get one bracket and figure out which way to orient it. (see photo 1) Each bracket has a opening at the forward end that will slot down onto the cam type receiver when you install the hood. This design allows you to remove the hood with no tools when all is assembled. So - the brackets should be oriented so that the forward opening is closer to the center of the mower and then the bracket seems to go outward as it moves back on the hood. When installed in this manner the brackets seem to spread out a bit as it fits in place and will allow clearance of the box like frame at the front of the mower. It will not clear if these are reversed and it slants inward in that case. With these in the correct orientation you get to my mistake. The bracket has holes that are set in a series of steps. The first bolt seemed to go into the first green panel receiving hole - but should have included the small green panel that will wind up at the bottom under the front grill and headlight assembly and right near these bracket forks. I left this off and it works fine without it but looks better (and is much more stable) with it. This little panel has a large funnel like hole that slides over the first panel mounting receiver hole so that the two green pieces are "stacked" and the bracket step and bolt will hold it all together and trap that panel at the top and really lock the front together. I can tell you that positioning all this together and getting these bolts to line up is pretty maddening. I think having a 16 penny nail to slide in and line things up (or maybe a ice pick) will help you get things aligned so you can get the screw(s) to grab. Don't tighten any screws all the way until you have all of them seated and in place - then go back and tighten them down. 5. Now you get to the inner cowl that funnels air to the engine. Don't skip this important piece just because you are frustrated!! It is crucial to keep the mower running cool. The tabs must be lined up and it took a couple of my largest flat heads to use as pry bars to ease things into place. Take is slow. Use finesse and just move a small step at a time. Possibly loosen some of the front grill screws - I did not do this and looking back - it may have helped. Will never know. The edge of the cowl will lap over the green side panel opening and provide a pretty smart looking edge once things are in place. It is a very satisfying sound to hear that last piece "pop" into place and you are actually done. Actually - sorry to tell you - but you are not. There are two holes that will be closest to the steering wheel and instrument panel when this hood is on the mower. There did not appear to be any way to hold them in place. I wound up buying a 1" x 1/4" bolt, 2 ea flat washers and one nylon insert "locking" 1/4" nut to hold this cowl at those points. My take was that the cowl was SO painful to get seated and finally in place properly and I was not about to use a push pin or leave this open and risk the cowl popping out of place after all the work to get it in place. With no instructions I have no idea what their plan was but I KNOW that mine is secure and will not come off because of the nylon insert on my nut. It was very difficult to get the nut under the bottom lip of this cowl. It took me 20 minutes and a small set of vice grips to hold the nut in place while tightening from the outside - to do this next to the last step. 6. Finally you may need to install the cam mount to receive the forked opening from the front brackets. (I made the mistake of removing my old parts to be ready for the new parts and did not snap a picture of how it was oriented originally. You will be interested to look at the photos I included. The cam installs with a carriage bolt. This bolt installs in a slotted elongated hole that is perfect for both the shoulders of the carriage bolt as well as the square cog (beside the hole on the flat back of the cam). Then put the nut (MAKE SURE you have the nut with the nylon insert to keep this in place and snug. Now you are done. Hope this helps along with the pictures. BE SURE and peel off the cover on the side stripe decals. I did not realize at first that it was protected. Pictures show before and afer that was done. I would have paid about $50 more to have instructions. Hope you have a better experience and agree. :)

Fits well once you figure out how it goes together. COMES WITH NO INSTRUCTIONS. But if you are mechanically inclined you should be fine.

This Hecasa Complete Hood Kit looks great and the assembling was not difficult. Had my original hood to refer back to. Took my time and completed it with only a couple of screws that did not tighten as I liked. Wrapped black electrical tape around the threads and that fixed the issue. Overall this is a great product and you can not beat the cost.

Poor instructions. Looks great