Motorcycle Head Light Turn Switch, Push Button Actuator, ON-OFF Operation, Black Color, 3-in-1 Light Horn Turn Switch Signal Button Set

First of all, for the money, this is a very nice button set. There are no installation instructions, nor wiring diagram, because it is very versatile. A few things need to be clarified with the wiring before you consider purchasing this button set; 1) it is a 12V DC system in that the RED(+) wire must conform to 12V DC standard because there are 3 LED's (power is present to the button set, LEFT TURN button is ON, RIGHT TURN button is ON, LEFT and RIGHT ON at the same time indicates EMERGENCY/HAZARD). If more than 12 volts, the LED's will burn out, less than 12 volts, the LED's will be dimmed or not function. The TURN/HAZARD LED's are not designed to FLASH. With 12 volts supplied the RIGHT TURN ON supplies 12 volts to the GREEN wire, LEFT TURN ON supplies 12 volts to the BLUE wire. 2) The voltage presented on the YELLOW (Light), BROWN (Horn) wires can be less than or more than 12 volts. This is possible because there are no LED's involved with the LIGHT and HORN buttons in this button set. Pressing the LIGHT button passes the YELLOW wire voltage to the WHITE wire. Pressing the HORN button passes the BROWN wire voltage to the ORANGE wire for as long as the HORN button is pressed. So, there is your wiring and functionality information. If your application is greater than 12V DC you most certainly will need to obtain a Step-Down Converter to 12V DC. I installed this button set on my NARRAK S180 e-trike 48V because I wanted to add a 7-inch light bar and TURN/HAZARD lights, both 12V DC applications. Since this button set contains LED's, I knew that I would have to obtain a 48V to 12V Step-Down Converter and the fact that the S180 Controller does not supply 12V DC. My S180 came with a Headlight/Horn combination. The Headlight is controlled by a CMOS/MOSFET/IC Controller and so is the Horn. Both of these require voltage in the millivolt range and the Horn has a stand-alone handlebar button. I wanted to eliminate the stand-alone handlebar Horn button and keep Headlight combination functional. Located the Horn wiring and rerouted them to this button set (BROWN/ORANGE wires) which allowed me to remove the stand-alone Horn button and wires from the handlebar. Mounted new 7-inch light bar to the handlebar and connected it's 12V (+) wire to the White wire on this button set. I installed front fork turn signals that also include running lights, connected the appropriate signal wire to the BLUE/GREEN wires on this button set, connected the running light wire to the 12V(+) from the Step-Down Converter. The front fork signals are self-flashing flow lights, no flasher needed. However, the rear signals required a flasher. All of the newly installed lights are LED 12V DC. This button set is handling all of the newly installed lights and OEM horn perfectly. Additional Note: If you install a Step-Down Converter you may want to consider installing a ON/OFF switch to the power to be stepped-down side of the converter. In my situation the NARRAK S180's power management system is very advanced. The S180 is 48V DC 750W, the battery with the key turned to run position provides 53.9V DC to the trike's controller, when the key is returned to the off position the capacitance of the controller is back to the battery (recharging it) and you may not want to expose that tricklingly effect to the converter. I installed the ON/OFF switch. Everything mentioned here was purchased on AMAZON including the NARRAK S180.

Works as intended. Took a bit to figure out the wiring. Turn signal buttons are a bit clunky i wish they were easier to turn on and off. Headlight, blinkers, horn all work. I had no issues but be careful on your amp draw. I used all low draw items if you don't something could burn up if you done use relays.

Overall, a nice little unit. I needed a slim and compact turn signal switch for a dual sport conversion that would clear the hot start lever on my dirt bike. This fit the bill perfectly. However, the wires were ridiculously thin and hard to work with. Not a big deal for the low amperage of LED turn signals, but I'm skeptical that it's thick enough wire for headlights. The biggest issue I see so far is the ink on the buttons are already starting to wear off, and I just installed it. Still, for a sleek unit with LEDs built in, you really can't go wrong for $10.

Didn't know what I needed but was worried I couldn't put it in, but being an electrician, it was able to be figured out but difficult. And if you're hoping for clear instructions, good luck with that.

I had to take my grips off because there’s no clamp, it just slides on.. turn signals are constant on/off unless you wire in a relay and the blue light stays on constantly whether light is on or off.