---
product_id: 4462243
title: "General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut"
brand: "general finishes"
price: "898 kr"
currency: DKK
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 8
category: "General Finishes"
url: https://www.desertcart.dk/products/4462243-general-finishes-oil-base-gel-stain-1-quart-antique-walnut
store_origin: DK
region: Denmark
---

# Even color on tricky woods like pine & aspen Fast re-coat time, less downtime Heavy-bodied gel for smooth, drip-free application General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut

**Brand:** general finishes
**Price:** 898 kr
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> ✨ Transform your woodwork with the gel stain that means business

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut by general finishes
- **How much does it cost?** 898 kr with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.dk](https://www.desertcart.dk/products/4462243-general-finishes-oil-base-gel-stain-1-quart-antique-walnut)

## Best For

- general finishes enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted general finishes brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Time-Smart Project:** Quick drying and re-coat times mean you finish faster, impress sooner
- • **Effortless Elegance:** Achieve a hand-rubbed, lustrous finish without the hassle
- • **Versatile Application:** Use foam brush or cloth—no spills, no mess, just flawless coverage
- • **Precision Color Control:** Heavy gel formula prevents uneven penetration for consistent results
- • **Trusted by Pros & DIYers:** Top-rated stain with 4.7 stars and thousands of glowing reviews

## Overview

General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain in Antique Walnut is a premium, heavy-bodied oil-based gel stain designed for easy application and superior finish. It offers excellent control over color consistency, especially on challenging woods like pine and aspen, with a smooth, drip-free formula that dries quickly for faster project completion. Loved by woodworkers and DIY enthusiasts alike, it delivers a rich, hand-rubbed look with minimal effort.

## Description

These oil-based Gel Topcoats and Stains are quite possibly the easiest of all finishes to use and achieve a "hand-rubbed" look without all the work. Application is easy with a foam brush or lint free cloth. The heavy bodied gel formulation permits the product to flow out evenly (no drips or runs) preventing uneven penetration for consistent color control. Combined with no sanding (your choice to sand or not) between coats and a quick “re-coat” time, you’ll be finished sooner with less effort and better results than ever before.

Review: End result lived up to the hype, but it's a lot of work! - I've been entertaining the idea of gel staining my cabinets for a long time, however I never thought it would come to fruition until we decided to change out our kitchen countertops, floors, backsplash. I was thinking on replacing the doors/drawers and just painting it white, however the budget was already creeping up with other expenses and I feel my existing doors would look better as a dark espresso moreso than white. I've read the reviews, read questions/concerns, viewed many tutorials, etc and decided to pull the trigger. I would say our kitchen is on the larger side that includes 25 doors, 15 drawers, u-shaped with a large island. Overall I am happy with the product, outcome and it lived up to the hype. I knew it would require a lot of time and work, but if I could go back I would probably just hire someone. The amount of time it took in total could have easily been paid off by a professional and more if I used what I feel my time is worth based on what I can do to supplement my source of income through other means. On top of that I did sections of it before our kitchen demo/install and after. Since I am away from home for work10-12 hrs per day M-F,I could not be as efficient as I would have liked. I have oak cabinets stained walnut that were about 10 years old. I took steps similiar to many others, but broke it down into 3 sections of the kitchen since it was too large to get down at once. Prep time was probably the most tedious part that included- 1) Empty cabinets, 2) clean cabinets (I used krud kutter), 3) sand cabinets (I tried various grits and found 220 grit to be perfect lightly by hand; if I could go back I would have used a sander), 4) vacuum/wipe down cabinets, 5) tape down areas as needed. Imagine doing this 3 times. I used the sock method (with two non latex gloves). I just bought cheap socks from target/walmart I believe. I also had a small brush and sponge brush. I would the small brush was a lifesaver for the small crevices and corners. I did 4 layers of the Java stain in total. I waited 48 hours first the first coat to dry and 24 hours for the rest. I was expecting some streakiness, but was a little concerned after seeing it on the 3rd coat. 4th coat was the key winner. I think part of that is not optimally preparing some of my surface areas; poteintially due to different amount of protective coating found in different areas of my kitchen. Also the area above my range was probably not cleaned as well as it should have been. I did all my doors/drawers in the garage and numbered each one. I did not sand inbetween coats. After the final coat the stain was beautiful. Even the floor, granite installers, contrator was impressed with the work. The satin gloss is very subtle. I was damn impressed. Then came the clear coating. I waited an entire week before applying it. I then very lightly sanded with highest grit sanding sponge I could find (I believe it was 220) and wiped the dust down. I used wipe on with rag/sock and sponge brush. I found all methods to work great. Very easy to go on and gives you a lot of wiggle room. I initially purchased the GF Gel Top Coat in Satin. http://www.desertcart.com/GF-Gel-Topcoat-Satin-Quart/dp/B001F7R320. I did 3 coats on my island and a standalone cabinet and it came out great. It also whitstanded through the demo believe it or not. The satin sheen was similiar to the Java satin sheen and if anything you could see the grains of the oak cabinets a little more. I did not notice it enriching the color significant either. It kept it pretty consistent. I was very happy about the results, but I decided to try another product due to the high VOC content of the top coat (wife is pregnant and insist to use part of the kitchen). Since this was still 1/4 way through I had to be reasonable and ended up purchasing a non-VOC top coat off in satin from another website. This is when it all went downhill. I didn't realize what type of skill is needed to apply a top coat, until I purchased this. It made me realize how good the GF topcoat was. My cabinets looked horrible. I should have tested it out first. It was 10x more diffiucult to apply and my cabinets not only looked streaky, but their satin looked more like semi-gloss. It also darkened the cabinets noticably more compared to the original coating. I thought I ruined my kitchen. I decided to do more research and found that the most important coat is the last coat. I learned better technique and tools and redid a large portion of my kitchen. Luckily my new technique did wonders and I was able to coat it streak free and the sheen was also a lot less subtle for some reason. Possibly due to putting it on thinner and I made sure I mixed it very well. I did 3 coats total. The end result came out great despite the scare. I ended up using 2 quarts and still have a little left over. It took me about 6 weeks solo to do my large kitchen, working full-time and other priorities that I could not push back. Like I mentioned if I could go back I would have just hired someone, but that is only because I can supplement my income in a lot less time I spent doing this project to just hire someone. I think that there are so much variables to consider before just doing it so do your research, be patient and trial and error. Everyone's surfaces are different; different wood, coatings, dirt, details, etc. So understand the optimal way to prep for your actual surface. I also think technique and having the right tools plays a role especially if you have a more challenging surface such as a door with all types of crevices, details, corners, etc. Too me that was the most difficult part was because of those challenging areas of the door. So my two biggest tips would be good preperation for your project and learning the proper technique/tools to do the job. Oh yeah and patience too.
Review: LOVE THIS STUFF - I am doing away with all the honey oak in our house - and there is A LOT. I started with the vanity in the bathrooms and then moved on to the kitchen (which is in process now) and railings. This stuff is GREAT. Here is why I like it so much: 1. Once you get the process down it's easy-peasy to complete - just takes time (see below for my process) 2. It's a very rich color - it may look black and at first glance however it is a very dark rich brown 3. I have put the top coat on (GF High Performance water based in satin) for most of my work and it seems to be holding up well - good with humidity (vanities in the bathrooms) and constant use (railings) 4. Keeps my wood grain so it looks more natural than painting 5. What do you need: gel stain, top coat, sand paper, TSP substitute cleaner, lint free rags, foam brushes, drop cloth, painters tape You must have patience while going through the process - not so much for application but making sure you allow sufficient dry time between coats - with proper prep I was able to get to the full dark color in about 3 coats (I may have had to touch up some spots here or there. Here is my process: 1. lightly sand surface (break up the top coat) - if you look online you see folks that say you don't need to sand - while that is true, I found I needed an additional 2 coats if I didn't do this prep - thats more material and another 48 hours added on to my time, so I took the time and prepped properly. 2. Use a TSP substitute (also a deglosser) to help with what you just broke up. I followed directions for diluting the solution and sprayed it on (cover other surfaces!!) and let sit for at least 5 minutes then wipe off with a damp cloth. 3. after that has dried, grab some gloves and crappy clothes and a foam brush and start the application - first make sure you stir the gel stain well and put it on your application area thick - I mean, it looks like you can finger paint in it thick - you shouldn't see much of the actual wood at this point 4. Wait - once you apply the gel stain (make sure not to apply to an area too big - you can't have it dry before wiping off) you wait about 10 mins (humidity, temp etc will affect it) you can start wiping it off. I always brush the foam over my rag to put a little down - if you start with a 100% clean cloth you will take off more material than you want to. You want to wipe it down until it looks like there is no more sitting on top - don't press too hard, some of what set was directly on the wood - but you don't want "globs" of the stuff left on there - I'll try and get a pic of this as I work through my cabinets. 5. Now wait some more - 24 hours minimum to be exact between each coat - DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS or you will not be pleased. 6. After all coats are complete slap a clear coat on there (after waiting 72 hours after last application before clear coat) which thankfully you can get 3 coats on in 1 swoop as there is only a 2 hour dry time (for the GF clear coat) If you're not sure this is for you - pick a small project first, or even just a random board so you know how it goes - it's not for the weak of heart but I do love the outcome and would do it again and have never even considered using another brand of gel stain!

## Features

- This is the stain that has the most "finishing feel" of all General Finishes' products
- Woodworkers love the lustrous finish that shows up
- Heavy-bodied, and so does not penetrate as deeply into the wood as liquid oil-base stains do
- Can help you get a more even appearance on difficult woods such as aspen or pine
- Easy-to-use stains simply wipe on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush (no spills or splashes)

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Brand | General Finishes |
| Color | Antique Walnut |
| Material | Oil Based |
| Model Name | B124-UL Quart |
| Size | 1 Quart |
| Surface Recommendation | Wood |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** General Finishes
- **Color:** Antique Walnut
- **Material:** Oil Based
- **Model Name:** B124-UL Quart
- **Surface Recommendation:** Wood

## Images

![General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/512yBygMgIL.jpg)
![General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51G0qFLRH8L.jpg)
![General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61KjQm3zGXL.jpg)
![General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91g79SC6nsS.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color, Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Can this be used on cabinets that have been painted?**
A: I actually sale the General Finishes line at our stores. I absolutely love this product. Yes you can use this over painted cabinets. However, I suggest sanding to ensure that there’s no paint that might be lifting bc if so then it could cause the General Finishes not to adhere properly.

**Q: How far does the stain go?**
A: I want to change the color to a darker color of a red oak stair case that Is stained red mahogany what should I use

**Q: Can I use this on laminate .**
A: Yes! I used it on an oak bathroom vanity with laminate sides. It covered it with no problems. It takes 2-3 coats depending on how dark you want it and I finished it with GF arm-r-seal. That was more than 5 years ago and it still looks the same.

**Q: Whats the best way to prep the surface before applying the stain?**
A: Depends on many factors. Bare wood light sand, wipe clean , stain . Previously stained and sealed, scuff or light sand and wipe down with mineral spirits, wait couple hours to be safe and stain

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ End result lived up to the hype, but it's a lot of work!
*by L***. on June 4, 2015*

I've been entertaining the idea of gel staining my cabinets for a long time, however I never thought it would come to fruition until we decided to change out our kitchen countertops, floors, backsplash. I was thinking on replacing the doors/drawers and just painting it white, however the budget was already creeping up with other expenses and I feel my existing doors would look better as a dark espresso moreso than white. I've read the reviews, read questions/concerns, viewed many tutorials, etc and decided to pull the trigger. I would say our kitchen is on the larger side that includes 25 doors, 15 drawers, u-shaped with a large island. Overall I am happy with the product, outcome and it lived up to the hype. I knew it would require a lot of time and work, but if I could go back I would probably just hire someone. The amount of time it took in total could have easily been paid off by a professional and more if I used what I feel my time is worth based on what I can do to supplement my source of income through other means. On top of that I did sections of it before our kitchen demo/install and after. Since I am away from home for work10-12 hrs per day M-F,I could not be as efficient as I would have liked. I have oak cabinets stained walnut that were about 10 years old. I took steps similiar to many others, but broke it down into 3 sections of the kitchen since it was too large to get down at once. Prep time was probably the most tedious part that included- 1) Empty cabinets, 2) clean cabinets (I used krud kutter), 3) sand cabinets (I tried various grits and found 220 grit to be perfect lightly by hand; if I could go back I would have used a sander), 4) vacuum/wipe down cabinets, 5) tape down areas as needed. Imagine doing this 3 times. I used the sock method (with two non latex gloves). I just bought cheap socks from target/walmart I believe. I also had a small brush and sponge brush. I would the small brush was a lifesaver for the small crevices and corners. I did 4 layers of the Java stain in total. I waited 48 hours first the first coat to dry and 24 hours for the rest. I was expecting some streakiness, but was a little concerned after seeing it on the 3rd coat. 4th coat was the key winner. I think part of that is not optimally preparing some of my surface areas; poteintially due to different amount of protective coating found in different areas of my kitchen. Also the area above my range was probably not cleaned as well as it should have been. I did all my doors/drawers in the garage and numbered each one. I did not sand inbetween coats. After the final coat the stain was beautiful. Even the floor, granite installers, contrator was impressed with the work. The satin gloss is very subtle. I was damn impressed. Then came the clear coating. I waited an entire week before applying it. I then very lightly sanded with highest grit sanding sponge I could find (I believe it was 220) and wiped the dust down. I used wipe on with rag/sock and sponge brush. I found all methods to work great. Very easy to go on and gives you a lot of wiggle room. I initially purchased the GF Gel Top Coat in Satin. http://www.amazon.com/GF-Gel-Topcoat-Satin-Quart/dp/B001F7R320. I did 3 coats on my island and a standalone cabinet and it came out great. It also whitstanded through the demo believe it or not. The satin sheen was similiar to the Java satin sheen and if anything you could see the grains of the oak cabinets a little more. I did not notice it enriching the color significant either. It kept it pretty consistent. I was very happy about the results, but I decided to try another product due to the high VOC content of the top coat (wife is pregnant and insist to use part of the kitchen). Since this was still 1/4 way through I had to be reasonable and ended up purchasing a non-VOC top coat off in satin from another website. This is when it all went downhill. I didn't realize what type of skill is needed to apply a top coat, until I purchased this. It made me realize how good the GF topcoat was. My cabinets looked horrible. I should have tested it out first. It was 10x more diffiucult to apply and my cabinets not only looked streaky, but their satin looked more like semi-gloss. It also darkened the cabinets noticably more compared to the original coating. I thought I ruined my kitchen. I decided to do more research and found that the most important coat is the last coat. I learned better technique and tools and redid a large portion of my kitchen. Luckily my new technique did wonders and I was able to coat it streak free and the sheen was also a lot less subtle for some reason. Possibly due to putting it on thinner and I made sure I mixed it very well. I did 3 coats total. The end result came out great despite the scare. I ended up using 2 quarts and still have a little left over. It took me about 6 weeks solo to do my large kitchen, working full-time and other priorities that I could not push back. Like I mentioned if I could go back I would have just hired someone, but that is only because I can supplement my income in a lot less time I spent doing this project to just hire someone. I think that there are so much variables to consider before just doing it so do your research, be patient and trial and error. Everyone's surfaces are different; different wood, coatings, dirt, details, etc. So understand the optimal way to prep for your actual surface. I also think technique and having the right tools plays a role especially if you have a more challenging surface such as a door with all types of crevices, details, corners, etc. Too me that was the most difficult part was because of those challenging areas of the door. So my two biggest tips would be good preperation for your project and learning the proper technique/tools to do the job. Oh yeah and patience too.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ LOVE THIS STUFF
*by B***7 on May 21, 2020*

I am doing away with all the honey oak in our house - and there is A LOT. I started with the vanity in the bathrooms and then moved on to the kitchen (which is in process now) and railings. This stuff is GREAT. Here is why I like it so much: 1. Once you get the process down it's easy-peasy to complete - just takes time (see below for my process) 2. It's a very rich color - it may look black and at first glance however it is a very dark rich brown 3. I have put the top coat on (GF High Performance water based in satin) for most of my work and it seems to be holding up well - good with humidity (vanities in the bathrooms) and constant use (railings) 4. Keeps my wood grain so it looks more natural than painting 5. What do you need: gel stain, top coat, sand paper, TSP substitute cleaner, lint free rags, foam brushes, drop cloth, painters tape You must have patience while going through the process - not so much for application but making sure you allow sufficient dry time between coats - with proper prep I was able to get to the full dark color in about 3 coats (I may have had to touch up some spots here or there. Here is my process: 1. lightly sand surface (break up the top coat) - if you look online you see folks that say you don't need to sand - while that is true, I found I needed an additional 2 coats if I didn't do this prep - thats more material and another 48 hours added on to my time, so I took the time and prepped properly. 2. Use a TSP substitute (also a deglosser) to help with what you just broke up. I followed directions for diluting the solution and sprayed it on (cover other surfaces!!) and let sit for at least 5 minutes then wipe off with a damp cloth. 3. after that has dried, grab some gloves and crappy clothes and a foam brush and start the application - first make sure you stir the gel stain well and put it on your application area thick - I mean, it looks like you can finger paint in it thick - you shouldn't see much of the actual wood at this point 4. Wait - once you apply the gel stain (make sure not to apply to an area too big - you can't have it dry before wiping off) you wait about 10 mins (humidity, temp etc will affect it) you can start wiping it off. I always brush the foam over my rag to put a little down - if you start with a 100% clean cloth you will take off more material than you want to. You want to wipe it down until it looks like there is no more sitting on top - don't press too hard, some of what set was directly on the wood - but you don't want "globs" of the stuff left on there - I'll try and get a pic of this as I work through my cabinets. 5. Now wait some more - 24 hours minimum to be exact between each coat - DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS or you will not be pleased. 6. After all coats are complete slap a clear coat on there (after waiting 72 hours after last application before clear coat) which thankfully you can get 3 coats on in 1 swoop as there is only a 2 hour dry time (for the GF clear coat) If you're not sure this is for you - pick a small project first, or even just a random board so you know how it goes - it's not for the weak of heart but I do love the outcome and would do it again and have never even considered using another brand of gel stain!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Love this stain - it's rich and warm but there's a learning curve to using it
*by S***S on October 28, 2025*

This stain is such a lovely, rich color. I've really enjoyed using it around my house and continue to find new ways to incorporate it. It does take some time to get used to in terms of applying it, and I would suggest getting good foam brushes and not putting it on too thick. When done correctly. it's absolutely premium and it's protecting my furniture and woodwork so well in conjunction with the topcoat. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

## Frequently Bought Together

- General Finishes Oil Base Gel Stain, 1 Quart, Antique Walnut
- General Finishes High Performance Water Based Topcoat, 1 Quart, Satin
- Bates- Foam Paint Brushes, 2 Inch, 16 Pack, Sponge Brushes, Sponge Paint Brush, Foam Brushes for Painting, Foam Brushes for Staining, Paint Sponges, Foam Brushes for Mod Podge Brushes

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*Product available on Desertcart Denmark*
*Store origin: DK*
*Last updated: 2026-01-26*