Radar Detector Hardwire Kit with RJ-11 Telephone Style Jack (13FT)

Great overall, a must for long term radar detector use. Look and wire are okay, just would recommend buying better connectors for the jack that goes into the radar. Had mine fall off the windshield twice, and the second time it ripped the connector off the cable. Overall would definitely recommend, and the included fuse taps are a nice touch to allow easier installation. Wire length is plenty long enough to mount in the back of a car if wanted.

Been using this hardwire kit with my Uniden radar detector for a little while now and honestly it made the whole setup way better. I was tired of having the power cord hanging all over the dashboard and getting in the way so I decided to hardwire it instead. Installation was easier than I expected and the instructions were simple enough to follow. The wiring was long enough to route clean through the trim and now everything looks factory installed. The detector powers on instantly when I start the car and shuts off correctly too so I dont have to keep unplugging anything. Connection has been stable with no random shut offs or power issues. The build quality feels solid and not cheap like some other kits out there. If you use your radar detector daily this is honestly one of the best upgrades because it keeps the interior looking clean and makes the detector way more convenient to use. Definitely happy with it

Used this on my 2021 Porsche Macan S, and it worked perfectly. I loved that it came with options for connection, and it had more than enough wire to get the job with ease. The wire was also thin enough that it tucked into the A pilar with minimal fight or fuss, so everything still looks OEM and nothing really shows. I think this is a solid product for a hardwire radar detector.

Plastic trim tool is a little weak, but its great that it is included at the price point. The connections seem reliable and it has been working well.

This has everything you need to direct wire a radar detector. Very complete. Fuse taps are great & they give you all the sizes needed. 2 things, you better know what your doing or at least view a video or you'll be disappointed. And, the butt connector for the fuse tap, run some electrical tape around it to protect it from shorting. Only change I would like is a shorter cable, 13ft is kinda long. 10ft would do the job for 99% of installs.

Very good idea but suffers from one critical flaw. The RJ11 power connector does not have strain relief. If you connect and disconnect it enough, it will fail. Look for another brand that has strain relief at the connector for better value.

The cord works great for my radar detector. I am going to attach photos and instructions to help the people that may encounter issues, or might become overwhelmed with the kit. The kit comes with a lot of wires and fuses. Don't get overwhelmed because you will only need a couple of pieces out this kit. The rest can be saved or trashed. "I recommend getting an automotive test light. It will help determine which fuse to use." (You can also use a multimeter set to DC voltage) First, locate your fuse box on your car. Remove the cover to access the fuses. Put your key in the ignition and turn it to accessory (radio comes on, but not dash lights). If your radar is plugged into the cigarette lighter at this time it should also power on. Take your test light and ground it to a piece of metal in your car because you want to find a fuse that only turns on when the key is turned to accessory. Then touch both sides of a fuse to see if the test light, lights up. If it does light up, you know that fuse has power. Now turn the key to off and touch the fuse with the test light, the test light should not light up. If the test light, lights up on the fuse it means you have constant power to that fuse and the radar will always have power, which we don't want. Find another fuse that turns off when the key is off, this is the fuse you want to use. Once you find the fuse that works, remove the fuse using the fuse remover they include and match it to one of the fuse wires in the pack. In the photo above you can see my fuse and which wire connector fits my fuse. Make sure to install the fuse on the slot next to the wire. The other slot is for storing a spare fuse. Install the wire and fuse back into the slot where the fuse was removed. Turn the key back to accessory where the radio turns on and test the end of the connection for power using the test light (photos included). Then turn the key off once you verified power. Attach the long cable with the phone jack side to your connector attached to the fuse box. (I like to turn the key back on and verify the radar has power at this step.) Use the included plastic tool to pry up the panels and hide your wire. Don't forget to attach the ground wire. In the photos I attached it to the same place I tested with my test light. I hid my wire along the dash, then up the siding next to the windshield. Then across my headliner and to the radar. I attached the radar to the window where I was going mount it and verified the radar worked once again. Then I hid the excess wire in my headliner, careful not to pull it down so I pushed it in softly until it was all gone. Then I hid my wire behind the mirror. Replace any trim or cover you may have removed. Now, package the rest of the fuses and wires you no longer need, save them or toss them, it's up to you. Hope this helps someone. (Yes, I know I could have gotten a kit to tap into my mirror, but I chose against that option since the mirror wires are so thin and fragile.)

Excellent

Simple and effective for the price!