Cast 3D Printer Resin Easy to Print Use and Burn High Resolution Castable 405nm LCD UV-Curing Photopolymer Resin for Making Jewelries and Metal Parts (Purple, 1kg)

UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical.

The company: Wow! What a great company and product, to say the least... Siraya tech went above and beyond to help me - to the point of giving me a free bottle of Cast! Not to mention the communication! This company isn't playing around! They know how to treat poeple and are genuinely concerned if you have any issues with their products. The product: I can't say that all of the failures I've had have anything to do with Siraya Tech's Cast resin or my Creality Halot Sky printer... There is definitely a learning curve with UV resin printing and if you think you're going automatically jump into casting resin, think again... This is without a doubt a challenging undertaking and if you're the type that is a bit faint hearted? Then this may not be the hobby much less, profession for you? That said, Siraya Tech with their Castable resin has done something great for 3d print hobbiests and business' transitioning from lost wax to lost resin casting. The quality of cured parts are absolutely stunning! You will not find another castable resin of this quality for $75 anywhere! Thanks again to Siraya Tech support team. They are truely good people and are very much appreciated in Northern California! Normally siraya tech is good stuff, but this bottle had fragments of print bracing in the resin! Someone used it and poured it back and returned it. Then it was sold to me! If I ever see this again from siraya tech or any other brand, they can kiss my arse goodbye! I never buy their product again! Also I could tell there was a problem with the resin. It was like something was added to refill because it printed very strange... I don't know if I'll use the rest of it..? Anyhow...

UPDATE: 8/3 - I've gone through 4 bottles since I first used it. I've used Blue, Purple, and I've also mixed them together! The mixture always comes out well, and the blue is a bit more difficult to achieve at first. I have since used mostly a centrifugal for my purple and always get excellent casts, I still do have slight trouble with vacuum casting however. Overall, I say this is the best resin for the cost. Okay, so I use Siraya Tech solely for casting. Now Purple is 50/50, as in sometimes I get a good cast and sometimes I don't. I feel like I have to raise cost on some products due to how much I waste attempting them. The prints for Purple always come out glorious, I've never had issues with the prints themselves. So it's definitely a burnout or curing error on my part. Purple doesn't work well for me on pieces larger then 3", I only use Vacuum Casting and may try Centrifugal next for it. Overall Purple is fine if you are patient and do it correctly! Now here comes Blue.... I haven't had ANY good prints so far..... annnny..... I've had a meh thin ring just to try and see if I could profit something off of this (It was 1 of 10 that survived). I've printed at least a dozen batches adjusting settings differently each time, sometimes drastic others slightly. I've used their recommended settings (which is the same as Purple) and still got nothing. My house's room temp is 75, so it's warm enough I feel like since Purple will still print beautiful. I will keep searching for a good setup and change the review once I have. Good Luck!

This stuff prints pretty well. Burns out really well. Just takes a bit more of a ramp than traditional polycast.

This is a very good product that works the same as other Blue Resin/Wax products at a fraction of the cost. You can even run this on your 3-D printer and use the same settings in the slicing as other Blue Resin/Wax products and get the same or better results. Easy burnout, great castings.

I love this resin. I use it in my Phrozen printer and it is my favorite resin. It casts well, and it is very strong. If you accidentally drop the print it typically doesnt break. Easy to tool and I even make rubber molds in my high temp (About 260 degrees) rubber vulcanizer with the cured prints without any issues, which is a huge time saver. And because it is wax based it is a pretty easy removal from the mold after curing. It doesnt glue itself to the rubber or need coating first like other prints. Ive tried many different resins and they are good for different things, but this one seems to be the best all around for my jewelry type usage. And it is half price of comparable resins!

Exxcelent

Worked okay for small pieces. Large hollow pieces ~3 cubic inches (16cm cubed) were a struggle to cast (had this on hand, usually use a different product that’s twice the cost). Did not burn out clean with three of the large pieces in my kiln resulting in a shorted heating element from some whispy dryer lint looking stuff. Printing was a struggle. It took me a long time to get it to print beyond the first layers. .03mm layers is a must. Large contact diameter for supports and minimal support angle. Long rest times between layers. Thick pieces didn’t want to cure well. Cured UV only for 30 minutes. After an hour, pieces would have trapped resin rise to the surface. I suspect this is why the burnout wasn’t clean, but tread carefully if you cast large trees with this. Get what you pay for. It’s got it’s uses. I use Siraya for all my standard resins but will stick with the costlier resins for better curing and burnout of large models.

le meilleur

Tardó en llegar, pero está impecable!

Après test de coulée en bronze et argent, idem qu'avec une grande marque. Résultat parfait. La différence c est que la grande marque ne sent pas la Siraya Sent assez fort. Bien aérer. Et alors plus dur bien enlever les supports après nettoyage et avant UV. Maintenant 3 à 10 fois moins chère qu'une resine vendue chez fournisseur bijouterie, à vous de voir

Lässt sich sauber ausbrennen und vergießen - kein Aushärten nötig!

I was expecting written instructions in the package. Especially the setting format for chitubox program.