DC 12V Fahrenheit Digital Temperature Controller 10A 1 Relay with Sensor

Good instructions if you read schematics and understand basic electronics. (I you do not, don't buy this!) The output is for driving a relay coil or other simple LOW CURRENT circuit. Installed in a sheltered but unconditioned locker in a travel trailer, it has been running a water tank heater for months with no problems.

This thing is exactly what I was hoping it was. I installed it as a cooling fan thermostat for my pickup. Of course, the internal relay shouldn't be loaded with an 80 watt fan, so I needed an additional relay to set everything up correctly. It reads down to tenths of a degree. The lead for the temperature probe that came with it was plenty long enough to run from inside the cab on the driver's side to the opposite side of the radiator. I wired it up as a ground side switch to reduce wire counts on long runs. I've probably used 5 "automotive" adjustable electric thermostats in as many years, one of each brand I could find. This setup has so far outlasted 3 of them. Doesn't seem to be as sensitive to voltage fluctuations, has a digital readout, and cost less than $20. Of course, this isn't meant to run an automotive cooling fan, and doesn't have an input for the A/C fan like the others do, and requires more complex wiring. Anyways, can be set to run a heater (on when cold, off when hot), a cooler (on when hot, off when cold) adjustable delta T, adjustable trigger temperature (whole degrees), and a warning for too hot/cold (flashing display, no sound). Also, it retains settings when disconnected from power. Update: 6-15-18 Still going strong, and I’ve had absolutely 0 problems. Works much better than everything else I’ve tried, and I only have it zip tied to the bottom side of the dash. Plenty enough vibration resistance.

i am using to regulate the temp in my lithium battery housing, these are in a space that will go down to below 0

This is exactly as described and worked perfectly the very first time I wired it up. Use case: I had a car audio amplifier under my rear hatch floorboard powering a subwoofer, I think it had far too many overheating cut-outs until it gave up. I replaced that with a larger amp to now power TWO subwoofers, one remained under the floor and the other is in the open area in the back. I installed a 12vdc brushless fan to blow on the underside of the amp, and when I first got everything running, I noticed the fan is a LOT louder than I had hoped, so I bought this temperature switch. I wired it up so that the power to the fan instead went to the temp switch, then the unit's switched leads supplied the (+) 12vdc to the fan. I changed the settings for this video to show what happens when setting "d" is at 2°F and the target temperature is 73°F ... The amp's temp slowly crept up to [Target]+[d] and the fan kicked on and I watched the temp drop to 72.8°F before the fan kicked off. I then let it cycle through one more time to 75°F, fan kicked on, temp continued to creep up to 75.2°F before starting to fall back down, to 72.8°F and fan turned off. That was proof enough that this thing does exactly what I intend, and I now have it set to kick on at 100°F and run until the temp probe reaches 94.9°F (target = 95° and d = 5). The only complaint I have is that the programming is a little convoluted. I did not explore any settings beyond Target, d, and mode = C (for cooling, opposite of H which is designed to switch on a heater to get temps up when the probe gets too cold). I will update this if the unit fails within the first year of use.

I installed this bayite thermostat in a solar project I’m building to control a cooling fan behind my solar controller. Knowing this controller board will reside in my shed where it can get hot I knew I wanted a fan to blow cooler air on the Prostar 30 that is the heart of my system. I programmed my thermostat to switch my fan on at 78 degrees with the temperature rising, and turn it off when the temp drops below 78. This unit appears to be well built, and easy to program. Two improvements I would recommend to the manufacturer; (1) make the depth shallower even if that means making it wider. As it is now it’s about 3 inches deep which made it more difficult to use on my board. (2) make the bezel lip around the face of the thermostat a little wider. The tolerance in measurements between the face and the body of the unit are so small it makes it more difficult to cutout an opening for mounting. Even with these minor issues I would buy it again unless I could find the same item with less of a depth requirement. Recommend.