7775502 Stops Rust Brush On Paint, Quart, Gloss Leather Brown, (Pack of 1)

I recently used Rust-Oleum Exterior Paint in gray for a small outdoor project, and I’m quite impressed with the results. Here’s my experience: Pros: • Durability: The paint is designed for outdoor use, and it really stands up to the elements. It’s been holding up well against rain and sun, showing no signs of fading or peeling after several weeks. • Smooth Finish: The paint goes on smoothly, and once it’s dry, it provides a solid, even coverage. It gives a clean, matte finish that looks professional. • Great Coverage: Even though I needed to apply multiple coats (especially on textured surfaces), the coverage was consistent and rich, and the gray color looks modern and sleek. • Fast Drying: The paint dries fairly quickly, which allowed me to finish my project in a reasonable amount of time without much wait in between coats. Cons: • Requires Multiple Coats: Depending on the surface, I found that I needed at least two to three coats to get a solid, even color, especially on lighter or rougher surfaces. • Slightly Thin Consistency: The paint is a bit thinner than some other exterior paints I’ve used, so I had to be careful to avoid drips and ensure a smooth finish. Overall: Rust-Oleum Exterior Paint in Gray is a solid choice for outdoor projects. It offers great durability and a nice finish, but be prepared for the need for multiple coats, especially on textured surfaces. The slight thinness of the consistency doesn’t take away from the final results, but it’s something to keep in mind. For a quality, long-lasting finish, this is a reliable option.

Best product ever very durable dries fast

Refurbishing a 2004 dodge ram after using rustolium on 81 Yanmar tractor. Tractor came out great. Dodge is looking good. Using acetone for thinner, Van Scickle hardener and fisheye eliminator.

I used this on several projects and it’s very good basic paint and an affordable price

I generally don't like oil-based paint because it's harder to clean up, and haven't really used much since painting models as a kid. I had some of the same issues with this paint as I did with Testors back in the 1990s: Paint goes on too thick, details of small items lost, long drying time. The main issue there, I've discovered, is that the paint goes on thick, but does spread and "settle" well when using a larger amount. So for larger items, it's probably more ideal, if you're okay with the finish. After some failures and second attempts on boot lacing hardware, I found a good method to get the results I wanted. It's mainly just following a certain procedure to get there. My goal is to paint SOME of the boot hardware, but not all, which means getting a finish which mostly matches the paint already applied. This is more matte semi-gloss. Have mineral spirits or acetone handy to rinse your brush, as the paint in the brush will start to dry, get sticky, and make the paint much harder to apply uniformly. I didn't bother at first with rinsing and ended up using brake cleaner, which isn't stated in the directions, but works well enough while the mineral spirits are on the way. Feel free to thin the paint according to the instructions if necessary to get it to go on more smoothly, as it does have a tendency to goop up on items with fine detail. I found one of the keys to getting a smooth finish with this is to apply at least two THIN coats. I think a lot of people (including myself) tend to try to go for opaque coverage with one coat and try to finish quickly, and it just doesn't work when painting small items... it just ends up looking cakey and bad when dry. From what I have seen, if the paint is shiny when you're done applying it, it's probably going to dry that way. As always, apply the first layer uniformly with coverage, but do not worry about it being sheer, because at least one more thin coat is necessary. It does take around 24 hours to be sure it dries completely so that it's not sticky and you don't fingerprint the finish. Just allow more time for your project, and it definitely helps. As you apply it though, the somewhat slower drying time can work to your advantage. If you apply, wait a few seconds for some paint to stick, and keep brushing with a dryer brush, you can remove excess paint that would dry shiny. This sometime tends to "settle" in a way that doesn't look smooth, so you can move on to another piece for a couple of minutes and check your previous piece to make sure it's completely smooth. If not, brush without applying more paint again to smooth the surface until enough paint has stuck to the surface and the surface of the paint is smooth and more matte, if that's what you're going for. Wait 24 hours and repeat this process. Again, if your results still turn out gloppy, sticky-looking and too shiny, thin the paint slightly with mineral spirits or acetone and apply many thin coats to make sure you can apply it without the paint collecting in crevices and corners of your piece. If I was using this sort of paint on a small or medium figure, for example, I would probably thin it to the maximum directed and apply as many coats as necessary to get the result I wanted. If you have something which you can spray freely with some or no masking, using a good paint gun to get get uniform coverage would probably be ideal, but again, this paint is more on the shiny side when a lot of it is applied. If I had to do this project again, I would most likely use this same paint, as I would still be going for a thin and smooth finish. Using a matte finish paint with the same viscosity might be easier, but avoiding pooling of excess paint would still be something I would want to minimize.

My favorite black oil base enamel that I have swore by forever. This paint works on everything from metal, aluminum, iron, fiberglass, plastic, cement, and composite materials. Brush, roll, or spray you can easily get a show color quality finish. Just remember do not thin greater than 10%, and do your pre prep paint work. Use Ospho under your primer or just paint over the Ospho this will make your paint adhere better and finish last longer. If you must thin use good quality low odor mineral spirits. Use a pyrex measuring cup or a scale to add thinner, do a little math, and keep that under 10% if you are spraying or need to thin this paint. If you want it to have a high gloss it will take longer to cure/dry add flood penetrol this will make it lay on like glass with a brush or roller. For cleaning everything use mineral spirits or Joe's Hand Cleaner. Do not get rustoleum on eyeglasses it doesn't come off it will etch them even if they are glass. If you are using this wonderful paint in really hot temperatures like over 100°F thin with a little turpentine. Cold temperatures don't get tempted to thin with acetone, lacquer thinner, xylene, toluene, or naphtha because these hot thinners will curdle the paint possibly flattening it. Best choice is High or low temp auto paint reducer. Do not use hardener in rustoleum no need. Good luck. 👍

Great price

I used Rust-Oleum Smoke Grey paint to give my camper van a fresh new look, and I’m really impressed with the results. The color came out clean, smooth, and consistent—it has a nice modern grey tone that isn’t too dark or too light, making the van look sleek without standing out too much. The paint went on evenly and covered well with just a couple of coats. It also dried quicker than I expected, which made the process a lot easier. So far, it’s holding up great against the weather and doesn’t show dirt as quickly as lighter colors do, which is a big plus for traveling. Overall, Rust-Oleum Smoke Grey gave my camper van a durable, professional-looking finish at an affordable price.

My only problem is that the can was damaged fortunately the paint didn’t come out

Goes on well. Great coverage and finish. Very happy

Good to buy, easy to use

Great, delivered on time and just what I wanted

My packages went to two different towns before it actually arrived at my destination, the box was all damaged on the outside, and when I opened the package, the cans were all dented.